Good For The Man

GOOD MAN

This weekend, the fashion shows for men’s autumn-winter 2017-2018 confirmed a delightful Parisian vintage, with plenty of possibilities and a great coherence in the proposals.

At the National Library, rue Richelieu, Paris, January 20th. (Photo Clémentine Schneidermann)

Givenchy La Tisci touch

Should we take the place of the parade, the magnificent National Library of St. Richelieu, for a clue? Would Riccardo Tisci temper his resolutely urban creatures with a Gothic inclination, his sense of streetwear that his best-sellers (cf the famous Rottweiler print) testify, for a more cozy, calm, patrimonial proposal? Obviously not, and so much the better. If the Givenchy fashion show on Friday night began with a minute of silence remarkably watched by these fashion-conscious cats, it was in honor of the well-loved editor-in-chief of  Italian Vogue  , Franca Sozzani, a friend and Faithful supporter of Tisci disappeared in December. Then, against the backdrop of two enormous transparent spheres, echoed by the enormous buttons on the suit jackets, Tisci joyfully sent wood for a collection he conceived as an evocation of “the American West as seen by the eyes of a child . In fact, there was something naïve and playful in the colorful totem-colored sweaters, duffle-coats with frogs of all colors, star sweaters, costume jewelry. But the boys with spherical earrings and rappers jumps (enormous G or R on the torso) retain the gang aura of beautiful small strikes, and the technicality of the whole is obvious to the eyes, especially on large coats or Jackets that mix materials, zips, pockets. A mastery confirmed by the final: a series of haute couture dresses with incredible embroidery, worn by her muse Mariacarla Boscono and the must-see Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid. There was something naïve and playful in the colorful totem-colored sweaters, duffle-coats with frogs of all colors, star sweaters, costume jewelry. But the boys with spherical earrings and rappers jumps (enormous G or R on the torso) retain the gang aura of beautiful small strikes, and the technicality of the whole is obvious to the eyes, especially on large coats or Jackets that mix materials, zips, pockets. A mastery confirmed by the final: a series of haute couture dresses with incredible embroidery, worn by her muse Mariacarla Boscono and the must-see Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid. There was something naïve and playful in the colorful totem-colored sweaters, duffle-coats with frogs of all colors, star sweaters, costume jewelry. But the boys with spherical earrings and rappers jumps (enormous G or R on the torso) retain the gang aura of beautiful small strikes, and the technicality of the whole is obvious to the eyes, especially on large coats or Jackets that mix materials, zips, pockets. A mastery confirmed by the final: a series of haute couture dresses with incredible embroidery, worn by her muse Mariacarla Boscono and the must-see Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid. But the boys with spherical earrings and rappers jumps (enormous G or R on the torso) retain the gang aura of beautiful small strikes, and the technicality of the whole is obvious to the eyes, especially on large coats or Jackets that mix materials, zips, pockets. A mastery confirmed by the final: a series of haute couture dresses with incredible embroidery, worn by her muse Mariacarla Boscono and the must-see Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid. But the boys with spherical earrings and rappers jumps (enormous G or R on the torso) retain the gang aura of beautiful small strikes, and the technicality of the whole is obvious to the eyes, especially on large coats or Jackets that mix materials, zips, pockets. A mastery confirmed by the final: a series of haute couture dresses with incredible embroidery, worn by her muse Mariacarla Boscono and the must-see Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid.

Sacai The Magic Basics

William S. Burroughs explaining the technique of  “cut-up”  (cutting of an original text into random fragments before rearrangement, collage, for a new text): the soundtrack that opened the Sacai parade on Saturday at Centquatre announced a confirmation. Emulator of Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe, with whom she worked at Comme des Garçons before founding her own brand in 1999, Chitose Abe is synonymous with a poetic fantasy, with a constant search for volumes and materials finds. But its strength lies above all in its finesse, this way of suggesting rather than of asserting: a bewitching effect guaranteed. Turning to the basics, this collection (mixed, as always in her home) is full of details that make the difference, such as these coats with embroidered collars, These lightweight sweaters with delicately frayed collars and sleeves, these pants tightened at the ankle, these combinations of materials (wool, fur, leather, velvet). The silhouette is both obvious and sophisticated, chic and matte, very subtle alloy.

Dior at the Grand Palais. (Photo Clémentine Schneidermann)

Dior the Ardor of the tailor

“HarDior”: would it be fatigue or simply a natural turn of our sick mind, always it is that we immediately diverted into “harder” the title of the new collection of Kris Van Assche, who lined the podium -stalled at the Grand Palais. Especially since the soundtrack invited a “Do what you want”. But no, nothing sulphurous on the horizon. Rather a convincing proposal to re-read the costume, aimed at the younger generation who tends to abandon it. What does this Dior vintage mean : no, the costume is not just a uniform for a trader or insurance agent, it even has more mouth on a clubber with glasses mirror effect, and the time when it transformed you into Penguin is gone, it does not stack or unify. From the most sober (black velvet) to the most flashy (orange), This ode to tailoring incorporates the streetwear spirit, with wide, supple, short pants, which are adorned with large key rings, when the two-button jacket is curved. To wear, for the burnt heads, under a stunning orange leather trench with big black buttons. Fraying, stripes, stitching, prints (a mix of pogoteurs by the American artist Dan Witz), puffs of fur including a brilliant turquoise: it is an invitation to dare that book (not so wise?) Kris Van Assche.

Hermes. (Photo Clémentine Schneidermann)

Hermès The Power of Evidence

It is a life to make your head spin, just incredible in terms of the transfer window presiding in the fashion XXI th  century: in 2018, it will be thirty years Veronique Nichanian presides menswear at Hermès, Mission to issues more that Important and potentially crippling. Instead, she seems to be advancing in constant and fluid force, always in love with her young men, whom she pampered with sumptuous materials, sought-after colors, discreetly supported cups, there somewhat enlarged shoulders, Not excessively, there to the pants quietly widened on the instep. Entitled “rock-mantic”, this delivery is nothing fist but has the mouth, and it is one of those who immediately give desire to borrow for a feminine wardrobe, Such as large wool sweaters with turtleneck, trenches in woolen skin or in corduroy, and ample suits in moire velvet. A cloakroom anchored in reality, not fiction.

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